Tales Of The Wing
- Oil Filters for the Wing 1500
Using STP SMO-17 oil filter for the Honda
GL1500 seems to work fine.
Timing Belts for Goldwing 1100, 1200, 1500,
Gates # Honda OEM #
for tuning a CB antenna with a
Turn the transmitter off. Disconnect the antenna coaxial cable at the transmitter output.
Connect the "TRANSM" connector to transmitter output, and "ANT" to antenna connector. A short cable equipped with male connectors on both ends will be required between the transmitter and the meter. (*Note: adapters will have to be bought or fabricated to tune Honda radio antennas.)
Set the center switch to "FWD" and rotate the adjusting knob to near minimum position (counter-clockwise).
Turn the transmitter on, rotate the adjusting knob for full meter swing.
Next, set the switch to "REF". Read the meter scale. The indication will give the SWR reading directly.
A perfect matching, viz., 1:1 ratio, in ideal from the theoretical point of view. Adjustments on the transmitter and antenna system should be made so that the SWR is as low as possible. An SWR of 1.5:1 is considered satisfactory, taking into account the line losses and slight mismatching. (*note - readings are always taken with the transmit lever -PTT switch- depressed.)
Additional checks and tips. Before tuning:
Clean and check all grounds. The ground plate in the trunk of the GL1500 must be cleaned and bolts tightened. A sure way to get a good ground to the m/c main frame is to run a wire from an antenna mounting bolt to the m/c frame under the seat. I have seen several GL1500s with a significant resistance between the trunk framework and the main frame.
Check antenna for continuity. Two checks, from the tip of the antenna to the end of the cable center plug, and from the base of the antenna mount to the outside portion of the cable end.
Check for infinite resistance between the antenna element and the base. If there is continuity, don't try to transmit. Possible cause may be a crushed antenna cable causing an electrical short.
Check cable (coax connections) clean, tight, with no moisture.
Vehicle should be outside and at least 5 meters from any buildings or large objects such as trees.
SWR meter hooked up to CB end of coax using short connecting cables.
Do not touch the antenna while transmitting.
Do not let anyone stand close to the antenna. It won't make them sterile but it will screw up your SWR reading.
Objective is to obtain an SWR of less than 2 to 1 (2.0:1) on all channels from 01 to 40. If you experience a high SWR on all channels, you are probably experiencing a ground plane deficiency. RE-CHECK your GROUNDS.
If the SWR on channel 40 is greater than that on channel 01, the antenna is considered to be 'long' and reduction of physical length is necessary. On m/c antennas with a center loading coil, adjustment is made after loosening the top allan screws. If it is required to cut the antenna, the amount that you cut off should be in increments of no longer than 1/8th of an inch. Remember, cutting is your last resort after all possible trouble areas have been eliminated.
If the SWR on channel 01 is greater than that on channel 40, your antenna is considered to be 'short'.
Follow the instructions for your SWR. You probably will have to 'recalibrate' the meter each time you make a major change in frequency (channel change) or adjustment in antenna length.
Coax for 50 ohm systems employing a single CB antenna should be RG-58A/U. Dual or co-phased systems require a 75 ohm cable, RG-59A/U. Cables supplied with CB antennas should not be cut or shortened as they are a predetermined length. Do not tightly coil excess cable as this will effect your SWR.
Use Radio Shack adaptor 278-117 BNC Plug-Motorola Socket
Use Radio Shack adaptor 278-121 BNC to PL259 adaptor
Use Radio Shack adaptor 278-208 PL259 to Motorola
278-968 RG58/U Cable Assembly
While I had most of my 1500 torn apart getting ready for Wing Ding, I decided to check the brushes in the alternator. Boy was I glad I did!! The Wing had 67k on it and the brushes were at the service limits. Honda uses the holes for two reasons that I know about, but there may be more. The first is they are the service limit wear indicators. Reach the holes, change the brushes! (Works for me!) The second reason is a mechanical one. When you reassembly everything, you need a means of 'keeping' the brushes back up in the holders out of the way of the armature. So you push the brushes back into the holders, run a paper clip into the hole in each brush and WHAA-LA! Now you can put everything back together without fighting the brushes. Once the alternator halves are back together, pull out the paper clips and you are off and running. Some folks might want you to perform some sort of procedure to seat the brushes, but I didn't. One other thing, make a mark (scratch) across the two halves of the alternator casings to aid in lining up the halves on reassembly. It took me about 45 minutes from start to finish, and that is allowing time to heat up the soldering iron too!
- Buck Huddle -
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